Before the artificial turf is installed, measurements will be taken to determine the square footage of the project. Whether it’s a professional turf installer or you’re going the DIY route, knowing the size of the installation is essential. The size of the installation will inform how much artificial turf is needed, how much base material and infill material will be required to complete the installation.
Installing artificial grass requires a number of different tools. Below are the materials you’ll need to gather to pull off a successful DIY installation project.
Below we’ve provided an overview of each of the steps involved in an artificial grass installation. The steps and materials outlined below are for installing artificial grass on dirt. The process is a little different and simpler when installing turf on concrete as it doesn’t require the same amount of preparation or materials.
Preparing the site to install artificial grass involves removing the existing natural grass along with the top few inches of soil using a “Sod Cutter.” The soil is removed to make room for the sub-base, but excavating the soil is an important step that uncovers pipes, irrigation, electrical wiring, etc. Any sprinklers that will not be used are capped to avoid leakage and if necessary, most installers will relocate sprinklers, and modify existing irrigation lines.
The perimeter of your installation needs a solid surface like fences, sidewalks, curbs, or patios to secure the base material. If those types of edges aren’t present, a poly board edging, a.k.a. bender board will be installed. The installation of bender board is important, as it provides a clean line and a barrier between plant beds and your turf.
In order to prevent weeds from growing through your artificial grass, your installer will roll out and install weed fabric to prevent the growth of weeds. This is optional, and not recommended for pet-friendly applications as the weed fabric will absorb dog urine and begin to smell.
Changes in temperature cause natural soil to expand and contract. This would cause your artificial grass to buckle and develop wrinkles, which is why the top layer of soil is replaced with a solid base. The sub-base needs to allow water and pet urine to percolate through it, so it consists of porous materials.
For most residential artificial grass installations, most manufacturers recommend 3 – 4” of a class II road base. For installations that will require maximum drainage, like pet turf, decomposed granite works best.
The installation crew will transport the base material to the installation site in wheelbarrows. Proper base distribution and leveling is important to account for sloping away from living areas and towards the install drainage area. Proper base installation also ensures the turf will have the smooth level appearance upon completion of the project.
Once the base material is evenly distributed it is sprayed with water until the entire area is damp, as this will allow the base to properly settle. Then, starting from the outside and working inwards in a spiraling motion a plate compactor is used to compact the base and create a smooth surface. This is known as “Compaction,” and it establishes a solid base in which to drive the nails when installing the turf. If the area requires more leveling or grading, it will be done at this time.
The crew will roll out the artificial grass and then cut it to fit the installation area. The turf will be secured around the edges using nails, while the seams will be secured using seaming tape, glue, and nails. The edges of your turf will be secured with nails every 4” – 6”. The nails will initially be driven 3/4 of the way to hold the turf in place while the rest of the edges are secured.
To finish driving the nails, it’s important to separate the blades of grass to avoid any of the fibers being pulled down with the nail. The nails should be hidden by the blades of grass. It’s important that the nails aren’t driven too deep as it can cause the turf to be pulled down, creating dimples on the surface.
Seams are secured with U-nails or landscape staples every 6”. During the seaming process six inch u-nails are used to join the turf together. The two seams are butted up against each other with u-nails spaced six inches apart. The blades of grass will also need to be separated when driving the landscape staples into the ground to avoid the turf fibers being pulled down. The u-nail is then driven to the same level of the mat and then hidden with the grass blades.
The edges of some turf installations will need to be secured against a hardscape or edging boarder where nails won’t be effective. “Tucking” the edges of the turf is done using a metal bar called a “Wonder Bar.” This is an optional step that will be performed based on the needs of your project.
In this phase a power brush is used. The heavy bristled brush is used to pull against the grain of the grass causing it to stand up in preparation for applying the infill material. Infill consists of small sand-like particles distributed across the turf using a drop-spreader.
The infill acts as ballast and helps weigh the turf down to prevent bucking or wrinkling, and helps the turf fibers stand up straight. The most common infill material is Silica Sand Infill. There are a number of infill options available and you should discuss your options with your turf installer.
The final grooming step involves power brushing the turf once again, lightly, to force the infill material into the base of the turf for settling and optimal stability. This helps the infill settle between the turf fibers and become more evenly distributed. The power brush also helps the turf fibers stand upright and gives the artificial grass a finished appearance.
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